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I found with joy that the South Indian blend podi – a rough grind of intensely spicy, coarsely crushed spices, which you mix with a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” seasoning. This is accurate if you were using my grandmother’s home-dried chillies, but it would be kind to say that I’m far less daring with chilli, so here I suggest red pepper flakes instead. It’s an remarkably tasty marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Mint-Lime Dressing

You will need six to eight skewers made of metal or wood (if made of wood, let them sit in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook half an hour
Serves a couple

14 ounces waxy potatoes, cut into four-centimeter chunks
8 ounces paneer, cut into two-centimeter cubes
1 tsp coriander seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
One tsp black peppercorns
One tsp chilli flakes
One and a half tsp flaky sea salt, and additional for garnish
2 garlic cloves, skinned and shredded
Two and a half centimeters piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
about 3 tablespoons flavorless oil
1 red onion, skinned and sliced into eight wedges, then halved crossways

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
10g fresh mint leaves, minced
Half a tsp flaky sea salt
One hundred grams natural yoghurt

Boil the potatoes for nine minutes, then remove the water and allow to air dry for a minute. At the same time, put the paneer cubes in a bowl of boiling water for a short while, then drain and pat dry.

Add the coriander, fennel and cumin seeds into a grinding bowl or mill, add the seasonings, then pound or blitz to a coarse mixture.

Tip into a medium-large bowl with the minced ginger and garlic, add the oil, then carefully mix in the ingredients to coat. Arrange the vegetables and cheese on to six to eight metal or soaked wooden skewers, then place on a tray and keep ready – if desired, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Stir all the sauce elements in a mixing bowl. Preheat the broiler to its top temperature, then bake the sticks for a short time on each side, until the paneer is crispy and the potatoes are beginning to blacken. (This may take a variable duration depending on the heat of your broiler, so watch carefully, especially when cooking the first side.)

Present the skewers warm, topped with a little more flaky salt and the dressing alongside for dipping.